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DEMO HHO Installation HHO KIT HHO Gas HHO Generator Manual for free download
Read and follow these safety precautions to avoid hazards. If you do not understand these instructions or do not like to work on vehicles, please have a qualified mechanic do the HHO Installation for you. Incorrectly installing or using the HHO KIT HHO Gas Generator system may result in serious damage to you and/or your vehicle.
It should take approximately 3 hours to install this unit, so ensure that you have enough time to complete the HHO Installation. Be sure to work outside, no smoking at any time during the HHO Installation; make sure the engine is off and very importantly, not hot.
Your HHO kit generator system does not store Hydrogen HHO Gas, subsequently there is no fire hazard when installed properly. However water electrolysis generates Hydrogen HHO Gas, an explosive gas, which means that you should never light a match or smoke near or in front of the HHO Gas Generators output -the water tank could blow up!
Be careful with the HHO Gas Generator working when the car is not moving. A small amount of Hydrogen HHO Gas can accumulate in the air intake of the motor and could explode if you smoke or use an open flame near it.
Be sure to wear goggles and rubber gloves and only use professional tools; use common sense and general safety procedures used for any work carried out on automotive HHO Installations and maintenance.
Enjoy your new system
Be safe and enjoy your new Hydrogen HHO Gas on Demand Dual Fuel HHO Gas Generator System, read and understand these instructions before and during the HHO Installation and you will benefit from your new system for years to come.
HHO KIT SAMPLE OF HHO Installation MANUAL
HHO Installation of the hydraulic components
Please refer to the illustration below for typical configuration of the mechanical and hydraulic parts of the HHO KIT HHO Gas Generator system. In the end pages of this manual you will be able to check each one of the individual connections to be made regarding the HHO Installation of the components. We will now only focus on the main aspects of the HHO Installation.
Positioning the Dry-Cell
You will need to find a good place in your engine compartment to mount your new HHO KIT HHO Gas Generator system. Please remember that the water tank should preferably be placed at least 20 cm above the HHO Gas Generator Dry-Cells in order to guarantee a sufficient water head for the water/Hydrogen HHO Gas to flow. But in some cases with not too much space available to make the HHO Installation we just need to make sure that the bottom of the water tank is a little bit higher than the top of the dry-cell.
Install your new HHO dry cell as far away from the heat of your engine as possible. Normally the best place to install the dry-cell is in the space between the front grill and the radiator as it is closest to the air entering the engine compartment and often the largest space available.
Make sure to install the Dry-Cell in a place that can easily be accessed and cleaned or inspected from time to time. It should be mounted and secured in such a manner as to ensure it does not move or bounce around while the vehicle is in motion, even over rough terrain. Securing it with a permanent metal bracket (see photos above – metal bracket not included in the kit) should be sufficient to secure it to the engine chassis and to operate perfectly.
The dry cell can be mounted in horizontal or vertical position.
The vertical position does not require any special remarks. The water intake is connected in the bottom and HHO output will be in the top
When making the HHO Installation never make any type of changes in the dry-cell. Never open it, loosen/tighten the nuts or cut the screws.
You will damage the dry-cell and it will not work properly after. Changes made in the cell are not covered by the warranty.
of the cell. You just need to make sure that the HHO output hose is always above the top of the cell. If not the HHO Gas will have difficulties moving outside the cell and the production will be reduced.
The horizontal position requires more care in the HHO Installation. The cell has to be positioned upright and leveled to the ground with the tube fittings facing directly to the sky. If you look carefully the cell has 2 openings, one higher than the other. The lower opening is for the water intake and the upper opening for HHO Gas output. We must make sure that the cell is not placed with an angle/rotation that reduces the distance between the two openings. Please take a look at the pictures below.
Positioning the water tank
Make sure that water tank is installed with the same care as described before for the HHO Gas Generator. The water tank needs preferably to be placed 20 cm above the HHO dry-cell to accomplish the gravity head needed for the water/Hydrogen HHO Gas to flow into the HHO Gas Generator. But in some cases with not too much space available to make the HHO Installation we just need to make sure that the bottom of the water tank is a little bit higher than the top of the dry-cell. Please take a look at the pictures below:
Positioning the Bubbler
The bubbler will serve two purposes: cleaning the HHO Gas and act as a safety barrier. When HHO Gas is hot with the passage of current. This water vapor can carry tiny particles of electrolyte which can cause damaging corrosion. As the HHO bubbles rise up the column of water inside the bubbler they are "scrubbed" of any electrolyte particles that were attached to the water vapor. The result is much cleaner HHO Gas.
In the event of a flashback, the bubbler also acts as a safety barrier. If a flame reaches the bubbler and ignites the HHO that has accumulated at the top, the water column will prevent the HHO Gas from going on to the dry cell because the flame cannot skip from bubble to bubble.
Make sure that bubbler is installed above the water tank to accomplish the gravity head needed for a correct “filtering” of the HHO Gas; Please take a look at the pictures below:
Positioning the water and HHO hoses
The hose connections on vertical position of the dry-cell do not require any special remarks. The water intake is connected in the bottom and HHO output will be in the top of the cell. You just need to make sure that the HHO output hose is always above the top of the cell. If not the HHO Gas will have difficulties moving outside the cell and the production will be reduced.
The hose connections on horizontal position of the dry-cell require only that the positioning of the HHO output hose be made also always on an uprising position without ups and downs. If this happens, the HHO Gas will have problems moving into the water tank and will also be released gulps reducing the efficiency of the system. You may verify this problem if fluctuation of the amperage on your system is very high. Please refer to the illustration below for typical HHO Installation of the hoses coming and going from the water tank:
HHO injection point
The system is operated by vacuum suction from your car's air intake which takes the HHO directly to the combustion chamber mixing it with the air/fuel. The injection point must be done right after the air filter box and, in modern cars, after the MAF/MAP sensor (air flow sensor) and before the Turbo. Never make the injection point after the Turbo or Intercooler because the pressure will not allow the best results with the HHO KIT HHO Gas Generator system.
You will need to remove the air duct, to ensure that you do not leave any residue from the drilling you are about to do. Drill an 8 mm hole close to the intake manifold. Clean out any drill shavings, insert the high pressure fitting using goop glue or teflon tape and tighten. Connect the high pressure hose.
HHO Installation of the electrical components
Please refer to the illustration below for typical wiring configuration for powering the system: In the end pages of this manual you will be able to check each one of the individual connections to be made regarding the HHO Installation of the electrical circuits. We will now only focus on the main aspects of the HHO Installation now.
The system is powered by the 12V battery and controlled by the relay switch. The system will only work if there is a signal from the ignition source. The positive circuit (red wire) should be connected to the Relay Switch position 30.
Identifying the ignition source
This is an important connection to be made in order to have the HHO Gas Generator working only when the engine is also working. Identify a point in your vehicle's electrical system which has 12 Volts (positive) present only when the engine is running. The most secure connection is to excitement signal of the alternator. If you do not know how to do this connection please ask you mechanic to do it for you. Connect this electric source to the Relay Switch position 85. This circuit will control the HHO production.
This electric connection can also be made to a circuit controlled by the ignition key (position 2), but there is a risk of Hydrogen HHO Gas being produced when the engine is not running if you leave the key permanently in that position. Try never to make this kind of connection because it increases the risk of some explosion to happen.
Dry cell electric connections
Inside each one of the Dry Cells we have 13 plates, 3 of those with a configuration that allows the insertion of yellow female spade connectors. Not all of the plates are connected because electrolysis would, in this case, be very intense and damage the surface of the plates. We have to leave between the positive (+) and the negative (-) some plates without connections – Neutral plates -in order to break the voltage and increase the electrolysis efficiency with less heat production. Please refer to the picture below for typical wiring connection of the dry-cells using 12v:
The positive circuit (red wire) should be connected to the Relay Switch position 87. Some relays present the position 87a. Leave this connection with no connections. Connect the negative circuit (black wire) of the HHO Gas Generator to a good ground source.
In the next page you can check some photos showing the right way to make the electric connections in the dry-cell:
Water and electrolyte setup
Principles of the water electrolysis
Electrolysis of water is the decomposition of water molecule (H2O) into oxygen (O2) and Hydrogen HHO Gas (H2) gases due to an electric current passing in the water.
An electrical power source is connected to two electrodes, or two plates (typically made from some inert metal such as stainless steel) which are placed in the water. In a properly designed cell, Hydrogen HHO Gas will appear at the cathode (the negatively charged electrode, where electrons enter the water), and oxygen will appear at the anode (the positively charged electrode). The amount of Hydrogen HHO Gas generated is twice the number of moles of oxygen, and both are proportional to the total electrical charge.
Electrolysis of pure water requires excess energy in the form of potential to overcome various activation barriers. Without the excess energy the electrolysis of pure water occurs very slowly or not at all. This is in part due to the limited self-ionization of water. The efficacy of electrolysis is increased through the addition of an electrolyte (such as a salt, an acid or a base).
The electrolyte should be added to the water the first time that you use the system, and also when refilling, but in lower quantities. Amperage should be measured to ensure the right operative conditions according to the table below.
The electrolyte concentration to use in the HHO Kit generator system depends on the type of electrolyte and the purity of the product. The best electrolytes are KOH (Potassium hydroxide) and NaOH (caustic soda).
The more electrolyte you add to the water, the more amperage you will have in the system and also more HHO Gas will be produced. But, It is false to assume that a higher HHO Gas production will mean a higher fuel savings. There is an optimum point for all internal combustions engines. In diesel cars the system should provide around 0,25 liter/min of HHO Gas per each 1000 cm3 of engine displacement. You will be meeting this standard running your HHO Gas Generator with:
* The values presented in the table may have a variation of ±15% according to the different driving and mechanical conditions of each car.
For example, using KOH as electrolyte, with 90% purity, we should start using a concentration of 2% in the water solution (20 g/litre). You should right after measure the current intensity going into the HHO Gas Generator and increase slowly the concentration until you reach the first standard operation amperage:
(example for a 1,6 litre engine – see table above)
The HHO Gas Generator will start producing HHO Gas and temperature will increase with time making higher the electric conductivity of the solution and amperage until we reach the final standard operation:
(example for a 2 litre engine – see table above)
Warning: Do not fall in the temptation of not measuring the current or increase the electrolyte concentration more than is advised in this manual, because in long term, the HHO Gas Generator will not work properly and you may also not save any fuel.
Another thing that should consider is steam. Some of the early cell developers run their units with so much amperage that the unit was producing more steam than HHO. If your unit runs hot to the touch, you must suspect that at least part of your output is steam. One way to test for steam is to run your gas outlet over some ice. If you get significant amounts of fog forming (water droplets), you know that at least part of your output is steam.
Water levels in the tank
Once you have your mixture ready, pour it into the top of the water tank, up to the water level line shown in the picture bellow. Try to only fill your unit about 70% full. This is imperative to allow the HHO produced to enter the gap left in the Tank and avoid any risks of some water getting into the engine.
The standard water tank is a 1,2 litres unit which will provide you with approximately 800 kilometres of driving. Be sure to make your maintenance plan with that in mind and refill the tank when it is required. Try to refill as often as it is possible for you in order to keep the HHO Gas Generator running cool.
In our store we have a product that can help you to control better the water levels in the water tank and reduce the problems with the management of the system. It is called the water level control switch.
Amperage variation in the system
When operating the system the water molecule will be "broken" into HHO Gas to be used by the engine. The water level in the tank will slowly go down but the electrolyte will continue in the system with an increase of the concentration and, therefore, amperage being drawn into the HHO Gas Generator. This means that when you start using the system, with the tank full (Max level), you have 8,0A and after some time when the tank is at the lower point (Min level) you will have 10,0A
If you put too much electrolyte, there are a combination of heating factors at work and can cause a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in ambient temperature combined with excess electrolyte mix leads to overheating in the HHO Gas Generator shortening the “life” of system;
When applying a direct current to the HHO Gas Generator, a high resistance will be present in the water (electrolyte mixture). High resistance generates heat causing the water to heat up. As the temperature rises, the resistance in the water goes down, allowing more current to pass through the fuel cell. By the end of the day, the current will be higher than the value you started with at the beginning of the day. One way to control this is using a PWM – Pulse Width Modulator Pulse Width Modulation, is a method of transmitting information on a series of pulses, changing the frequency, rather than a continuously varying analogue signal.
It will allow you to control the amperage going into the HHO Gas Generator in a very easy way. This ability keeps the cell running at cool operating temperatures and prolongs the life of the cell while increasing the HHO output Efficiency: HHO Gas Generator will run cooler than standard linear power amps, requiring substantially less heat sink mass; Amperage control: the control of the amperage going into the HHO Gas Generator will be very easy to control. The ability to control the amperage keeps the cell running at cool operating temperatures and prolongs the life of the cell while increasing the HHO output.
Electronic fuel injection
When adding a HHO Gas to the engine of an old car, we will see immediate economies in fuel consumption. However, this is not the case for some modern electronic fuel injected vehicles equipped with an engine control unit (ECU), because the fuel burned inside the cylinders has significantly improved, but the sensors continue expecting the same amount of unburned oxygen to come out of the exhaust of the engine.
This causes a signal to be fed back to the ECU, that after will give orders to inject more fuel increasing the air/fuel mixture (Richer), which will counter act the fuel gains you may be expecting.
So we need to make some changes according to the cars*1. The different possibilities are:
1.1 Petrol Engines – Carburettor (before 1992) Fuel savings: 30 – 45% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Tune the carburettor.
1.2 Petrol Engines – Electronic Injection (1992-2001) Fuel savings: 20 – 30% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Reset the ECU. Install the lambda sensor extender. Isolate the body of the lambda sensors; Optional: MAF/MAP Sensor Enhancer to increase fuel savings
- Petrol Engines – Electronic Injection (2001-2012) Option 1 Fuel savings: 20 – 30% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Reset the ECU. Install the lambda sensor extender. Isolate the body of the lambda sensors; Optional: MAF/MAP Sensor Enhancer to increase fuel savings
- Option 2 Fuel savings: 25 – 35% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Reset the ECU. Install the HEC Chip
- Diesel Engines – Mechanic Pump (before 1998) Fuel savings: 20 – 35% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Tune the injection rate of the fuel pump.
1 The dates can change according to each country and manufacturers.
2.2 Diesel Engines – Electronic Injection (1998-2003) Fuel savings: 20 – 30% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Reset the ECU. Optional: MAF/MAP Sensor Enhancer to increase fuel savings
2.3. Diesel Engines – Electronic Injection (2003-2012) Option 1 Fuel savings: 20 – 30% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Reset the ECU. Install the lambda sensor extender. Isolate the body of the lambda sensors; Optional: MAF/MAP Sensor Enhancer to increase fuel savings
Option 2 Fuel savings: 25 – 35% Requirements: Right amount of HHO Gas inside the engine. Reset the ECU. Install the HEC Chip
We advise the HHO Installation of the HEC Chip whenever it is possible because it will maximize the results.
Components of the electronic injection
An Electronic Control Unit (ECU) controls the internal combustion operation of the engine. The simplest ECUs only control the quantity of fuel injected into each cylinder per engine cycle. The more advanced ECUs also control the ignition timing, variable valve timing (VVT), the level of boost maintained by the turbocharger, and other engine peripherals.
ECUs determine the quantity of fuel, ignition timing, and other parameters by monitoring the engine through sensors. In cars the most important sensors are: MAP/MAP sensor and Lambda sensors
For an engine with electronic fuel injection, the ECU will set the quantity of fuel to inject based on a number of parameters. For example: If the accelerator pedal is pressed further down, this will open the throttle body and allow more air to be pulled into the engine. The ECU will inject more fuel according to how much air is passing into the engine.
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or the Mass Air Flow (MAF) are the two sensors normally found in cars responsible for giving information to the computer (ECU - Environmental Control Unit) regarding the quantity of air being aspirated by the engine and, in this way, be able to calculate the quantity of fuel needed to be injected in order to maintain the predetermined air/fuel ratio. If more air is going into the engine then more fuel will be injected in the engine and vice-versa.
The MAF/MAP sensor pick a 5 volt signal from the ECU, and returns a lower voltage signal in accordance with the aspiration in the engine and the quantity of air going inside. A higher output voltage means more air passing, which is then calculated as "more fuel is needed". Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum, which requires less fuel.
It's not just fuel control. The MAF/MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing.
Also called oxygen sensors as it measure the amount of the oxygen in the exhaust gases. This information is used by the engine´s computer system to control engine operation. There are few types of lambda sensors available, but here we will consider most commonly used - voltage-generating type.
Normally the lambda sensors are presented in all petrol cars after 1992. In diesel cars only in the last years these sensors have been installed.
The lambda sensors can be found in a variety of places, depending on the vehicle make, model and engine type. The accompanying illustrations depict some of the more common locations. As a general rule, each exhaust manifold has at least one pre-cat sensor. Most vehicles manufactured since the early 1980s are equipped with pre-cat sensors. With the advent of Onboard Diagnostic Systems II (OBDII) in the mid-1990s, Lambda sensors were positioned both upstream and downstream of the catalytic converter.
Front (upstream) lambda sensor
Front or upstream lambda sensor located in the exhaust manifold or in the downpipe before catalytic converter. It monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases and provides the "feedback" signal to the engine computer. If the sensor senses high level of oxygen, the engine is running too lean (not enough fuel).
The engine computer adds more fuel. If the level of oxygen in the exhaust is too low, the computer decides that the engine is running too rich (too much fuel) and subtracts fuel accordingly.
This process is continuous -the engine computer constantly cycles between slightly lean and slightly rich to keep the air/fuel-ratio at the optimum level. If you look at the front lambda sensor voltage signal, it will be cycling somewhere between 0.2 and 0.8 Volts (see picture in the pdf manual for download)
For these sensors we should install the lambda sensor extender and also isolate the sensor body.
Rear (downstream) lambda sensor
Rear or downstream lambda sensor is located after catalytic converter. It monitors the efficiency of the catalytic converter. In the past, and in most cases the downstream sensors are not used in air/fuel ratio calculations. Therefore they do not need to be treated. But we are finding quite a few cases where that's not true anymore. Some car manufacturers are using the rear sensors as part of their air/fuel ratio calculations. It is now a primary suspect when fuel mileage is not being achieved when the steps above are all found to be in.
So we advise you to also isolate the sensor body
Resetting the ECU
The ECU of your car is the brain using mapped data to work out the optimum control conditions for the engine. According to the day to day driving conditions the ECU builds a memory database that helps it to decide the course of action that should be taken by the engine to ensure an ideal drive.
Even though you have made modifications in your car, the ECU still continues to get an input of the old data which is stored in its memory. This old data no longer is credible as it pertains to conditions that existed before the modification. The input data to the ECU should pertain to the post modification situation of the components and parts introduced, while making the modification.
This means that you have to erase the old data from memory and new data pertaining to post modification should be logged into the ECU memory by mapping in new readings. This is the reason why ECU resetting is essential for optimum performance after any modification has been carried out in your car. The moment you have carried out the modification you should purge out existing data in your ECU’s memory; You should then feed in fresh data pertaining to the conditions that have come into existence post modification. The ECU has to operate on the newly acquired data as this new data reflects the true conditions post modification.
Resetting the ECU when you choose to boost Octane with HHO Gas becomes necessary because your ECU has a memory bank for octane. This means that if you've been using lower octane, the response of ECU will correspond to lower octane with the booster matching lower octane performance. The ECU response will continue to correspond to lower octane even though you have started using higher-octane fuel. This is because the ECU has not been reset for higher octane. Thus even though higher octane is in actual use, the data in ECU memory still corresponds to that of lower octane. This mismatch affects performance, as you are unable to derive the benefits of boosting the octane. Therefore you should reset your ECU periodically after filling up full tank in order to ensure that ECU adjustments for its octane memory are made afresh corresponding to the octane actually in use.
To reset the ECU you simply have to unplug the negative battery cable connection. Theoretically it is best to leave it in this disconnected condition for as long as you can. Practically leaving it disconnected overnight is more than enough. After having left the cable disconnected for sufficient time you have to connect back the cable. Start the car and keep it running so that it warms up. This would not take more than 10 minutes at the most in summers. Once you have done this you have accomplished the ECU resetting. Shut off the engine. You can now use your car whenever you feel like. ECU resetting is over.
You may also reset the ECU by simply unplugging both the negative and positive battery cable connections and after connect them both together. Leave them connected around 40 minutes and then connect back the cables to the battery. Start the car and keep it running so that it warms up. This would not take more than 10 minutes at the most in summers. Once you have done this you have accomplished the ECU resetting. Shut off the engine. You can now use your car whenever you feel like. ECU resetting is over.
Installing the lambda sensor extender – Pre-Cat Sensor
Lambda sensor extenders are used in conjunction with HHO KIT HHO Gas Generator systems. In this type of system the extenders effects a correction voltage back to the vehicle ECU, so that the ECU does not deliver excess fuel to the engine as it tries to compensate for the increase of oxygen in the exhaust -which is a result of burning clean fuels, such as Hydrogen HHO Gas.
In practice, this extender stands-off the Lambda sensor from its normal position making the sensor less sensitive to the increased level of oxygen in the exhaust that results from the burning of supplemental (HHO) gas. Only first lambda sensors located between the engine and the first catalytic converter, in each exhaust pipe, needs to be fitted with an extender.
Each Lambda sensor upstream of the catalyser needs to be mounted on an extender as shown here.
- Before HHO Installation of the extender you should disconnect the battery, making sure any radio and security codes are available to re-enable affected systems once power is restored. If unavailable, the codes are obtainable from a dealership. Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery like when you reset the ECU.
- Unscrew the pre-cat Lambda sensor from the exhaust using an lambda sensor socket or a 22mm wrench. Be careful not to lose the compression washer. Apply penetrating oil around the threads to loosen a stubborn sensor. Inspect the sensor probe. If it is cracked or contaminated, replace it with a new one.
- Thread the extender into the exhaust, in place of the sensor. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) maximum. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten until the compression washer starts to crush.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable. Re-enter any codes. It may take a few days of driving for the ECU to relearn the new sensor position. It is okay if the check engine light comes on while the ECU relearns.
Note: It is good practice to apply a small amount of anti-seize compound (available at most auto parts stores) to the threads of both the extender and sensor before HHO Installation. Use great care in handling Lambda sensors to avoid damage; do not touch, or otherwise contaminate the sensor probe, or element, with compound, oil, etc. Proper sensor function is crucial to good performance and fuel economy.
Isolating the lambda sensor body – Pre-Cat and Post-Cat Sensors
In the past the downstream lambda sensors were not used in air/fuel ratio calculations. But we are finding quite a few cases where that's not true anymore. Car manufacturers they are using now also the rear sensors as part of their air/fuel ratio calculations and to control the good performance of the first lambda sensor. So we will need also to make some changes in these sensors.
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